The most common cause of custom furniture disasters isn’t design or craftsmanship—it’s measurement. I’ve seen beautiful pieces that couldn’t fit through doorways, desks that block radiators, and wardrobes that leave gaps because walls weren’t as straight as assumed.

Here’s how to measure properly before any custom furniture project.

The Essential Tools

Before you start:

• Steel tape measure (minimum 5m length, 25mm width for rigidity)
• Laser distance measurer (optional but helpful for longer spans)
• Notepad and pencil (not your phone—it dies when you need it)
• Spirit level (floors and walls are rarely level or plumb)
• Step ladder if measuring above reach
• Phone camera for reference photos

Avoid fabric tape measures—they stretch and give inaccurate readings.

Wall-to-Wall Measurements

When measuring between walls for fitted furniture:

Take Multiple Readings

Walls aren’t parallel. Take measurements at:

• Floor level
• 600mm height
• 1200mm height
• 2000mm height (or ceiling)

If these differ by more than 10mm, the furniture needs to accommodate the variation. A wardrobe designed for 2000mm won’t fit where the wall measures 1985mm.

Check for Obstacles

Scan the wall for:

• Power outlets and their actual box dimensions (they protrude)
• Light switches
• Radiator pipes (often hidden behind skirting boards)
• Cable TV or data points
• Smoke detectors on ceiling

Mark these on your sketch with dimensions from corner and from floor.

Measure Skirting and Cornice

Skirting boards add depth at floor level. Measure:

• Skirting projection from wall
• Skirting height
• Any cornice projection at ceiling

Furniture can be scribed to fit around skirting, but this needs to be specified upfront.

Room Access Measurements

The furniture has to get into the room. Measure:

Doorways

• Clear opening width (not door frame—the actual opening when door is fully open)
• Clear opening height
• Depth of any narrowing (like door frame thickness)

Corridors

• Width at narrowest point
• Any corners and the diagonal available for long pieces

Stairs

• Width, height, and any turns
• Ceiling height at landing

A 2200mm wardrobe doesn’t fit through a standard 2000mm door opening. Either the piece needs to be designed in sections, or you need to confirm an alternative access route.

Floor and Ceiling Checks

Floor Level

Place spirit level on floor where furniture will sit. Check:

• Is it level front to back?
• Is it level left to right?
• Are there any significant dips or bumps?

Out-of-level floors (common in older buildings) need furniture with adjustable feet, or scribing to fit the slope.

Ceiling Height

Measure ceiling height at multiple points across the furniture footprint. Ceilings often slope or have beams.

For pieces intended to reach the ceiling, measure every 500mm across the span and note the lowest point.

Photo Documentation

Photos are essential reference. Take:

• Overall room shot showing the furniture location
• Close-up of each corner where furniture meets wall
• Any obstacles (outlets, pipes, switches)
• Floor condition
• Ceiling condition
• The access route (doors, stairs, corridors)

Include something for scale in each photo—a tape measure laid in frame works well.

Common Measurement Mistakes

Measuring to the Skirting Instead of Wall

Skirting adds 15-25mm. If you measure to skirting and order furniture for that size, you’ll have a gap where the skirting was removed—or furniture that won’t fit.

Measure to the wall behind the skirting.

Assuming Walls Are Straight

Walls bow and bulge. Run a straight edge (or tight string line) along any wall the furniture will sit against. Note any gaps.

Forgetting About Doors and Windows

A wardrobe that looks fine in plan might block a window from opening or prevent a door from fully opening.

Check clearances for anything that moves.

Ignoring Lighting

Built-in furniture often blocks existing light sources. Note where natural light enters and where artificial lighting is located.

Measuring Once

Every critical dimension should be measured twice, ideally on different days. Measurement errors are obvious when they don’t match.

What to Give Your Furniture Maker

A complete measurement pack includes:

1. Dimensioned sketch (doesn’t need to be to scale, but needs all measurements clearly labelled)
2. Obstacle locations with dimensions from reference points
3. Access measurements showing how furniture enters the space
4. Level/plumb notes highlighting any variations
5. Photos of the space and access route
6. Material samples if matching existing finishes

When to Get Professional Measurement

Consider professional measurement when:

• The project is expensive and complex
• Multiple pieces need to integrate precisely
• The space is highly irregular
• You’re not confident in your measuring skills

Many custom furniture makers offer measurement services—often included in project pricing. It’s worth asking, because they’re absorbing the measurement risk rather than passing it to you.

The Measurement Review

Before placing any order, review measurements with your furniture maker. Walk through:

• Overall dimensions and how they fit the space
• Access route confirmation
• Any potential issues they’ve spotted
• What tolerance they’re building in

A 10-minute phone call can catch problems that cost thousands to fix later.

Bottom Line

Good furniture projects start with good measurements. It’s tedious work, but getting it right eliminates most of the things that go wrong with custom pieces.

Take your time, measure twice, document everything, and share all information with your maker.

The extra hour spent measuring is worth days of avoiding problems.